By Sheri Reed

Photos by Sheri Reed

Back in February, my extended family spent a few days over at Dillon Beach--rented a house, took beach walks, made delicious meals, ate at the Tides in Bodega Bay, the whole fun family coastal getaway thing. One afternoon while on a daytrip around the area, we headed over to Tomales Bay and stumbled onto the magical Nick's Cove and Cottages. Tomales Bay's glass-like waters that afternoon and the Cove's serene and contemporary nautical charm instantly mesmerized me. The gliding kayakers, the yodeling loons, and the throbbing jellyfish viewable off the pier didn't hurt either. Right then and there, I decided I would be back to get a closer, more intimate look with an overnight stay at Nick's.

On the meandering strip of Highway 1 where you'll mostly find lovely old farm buildings, circling red-tailed hawks, cud-chewing cows, and charismatic oyster shacks Nick's Cove offers up something different: beautiful, refurbished bungalows and an oyster bar/restaurant with a wharfy charm that beckons to its 1930s fishing village roots. You can almost envision the local fisherman's children who may have run barefoot out the 400-foot pier to welcome back the crew of tired, briny fishermen from sea, ushering them inside for good food and drink.

No doubt, the views from Nick's Cove were always sweeping and gorgeous--salty bay waters shifting between choppy brisk and glassy serene--but the getaway hotspot has had some design intervention that puts its current magic into play. The existing Nick's Cove restaurant and cottages were recently revitalized by acclaimed San Francisco designer and restaurateur Pat Kuleto, whose restaurants include St. Helena's Martini House and San Francisco's Boulevard, Farallon, and Jardinière, as well as the new Waterbar and Epic Roasthouse on the Embarcadero. He and partner Mark Franz, chef/co-owner of Farallon, purchased Nick's Cove in 2000. Now the mini resort boasts luxury accommodations and top-notch dining, along with an interesting collection of vintage boating pieces and many other artful oceanic treasures, including a colorful display of old buoys and deck railings crafted from old oyster sticks.

Of the twelve newly refurbished cottages, a row of five right on the bay, my friend and I stayed in the 2-bedroom, 2-bath waterfront Bandit's Bungalow. Through a delightful and fragrant private flower garden, we made our way into the cottage for our first peek. I have to say, I think I said "Wow!" several times during our walk-through. The cottage rooms are modest in size and both subtly and expertly designed--a perfect balance of rustic and modern--with mismatched furniture, distressed wood floors, and an appropriate array of sea-centric knickknacks from shells and old fishing baskets to spare oars and nautical artwork. The king-sized beds were fluffed to extreme coziness, and the modern bathrooms with heated floors and deep claw-foot tubs served us well. I took two long, relaxing baths in our short 20-hour stay, and let's just say stepping out onto an 80-degree floor and into a plush bath sheet and then a nice robe heightened the whole experience.

In and around Nick's Cove, one can take part in kayaking, historical boat tours, crab fishing, fly-fishing, culinary tours, moonlight wine tastings, massages, seaweed wraps, and yoga sessions. There's also windsurfing and horseback riding nearby. On our trip, we decided to make a quick, 13-mile trip down the road to Point Reyes Station for Marin Sun Farm fresh eggs and some Cowgirl Creamery artisan cheese wonders. We made lunch out of Cowgirl's to-go goodie bag and some crackers, both bought new shoes in the Cabaline Saddle Shop, and stopped in Tomales State Park for a peek at the stunning nesting ospreys. Back in our cottage, we lounged on the leather couch, nibbled on Sicilian white anchovies from the restaurant, and watched cormorants sunbathing from our private bayside deck.

Although deep in relaxation mode, we somehow managed to saunter the 15 yards or so to the Nick's Cove restaurant where they serve up classic seaside fare with a gourmet twist--freshest Marin and Sonoma County seafood, line-caught fish, incredibly fresh oysters, organic produce, artisan cheeses, and sustainably raised poultry and meats. There's really not a bad seat in the woodsy, fully windowed dining room, and its atmosphere is sophisticated with a relaxing, casual feel with lots more seashore eye candy--mounted fish and an array of animal heads and historic photographs. We started off our meal with Tomales Bay Clam Chowder with Applewood Smoked Bacon and Bodega Bay Dungeness Crab Cakes in Sherry Aioli. Both were delicious and fresh, the clam chowder being lighter and more flavorful than most whites I've had in the past. For the entrée, we ordered Pan Roasted California White Bass with Spring Panzanella, Zante Currants, and Sherry Brown Butter, which I have to say, was a little lackluster, although very fresh, and didn't really hit the mark for me. Happily, we ended our meal on an upswing, with a lightly sweet and dense Pineapple Upside Down Cake. Now that's a dessert I'd like to see revived in restaurants more often.

After dinner, we took a walk around the grounds, along the bay, and out the pier to the adorable, rusty-roofed boat shack, which is used for private affairs for now. There is talk of making the shack a gathering place for boating passersby who want to quickly tie off and enjoy a plate of fresh barbecued oysters and a cold beer. Seems like a great place to serve up early evening Marconi Cove Mussels alongside their ultra local, big city wine list, but there are licenses that have to be put into place. By sunset, my friend and I were lulled back into our cozy abode, its wood-burning stove, and yes, the Wi-Fi (one has to touch base with the real world every now and again). As the evening turned black and the high tide crept up beneath the stilts of the cottage, we were gently rocked into slumberland--high thread counts, piles of pillows, and the swish swash of the bay waters swirling in below.

By 6:00 a.m., I was pulled awake by the natural forces that be Nick's Cove: this particular morning, a dropping-down, orange full moon; the scattered beachy beauty that is low, low tide; and egrets and hawks careening after their morning meals. I said it was magical. I can honestly say, at that point, I hoped I'd never have to leave.

After I took a quiet stroll on the wide-open beach and my friend woke, we enjoyed breakfast in our cottage: memorable scones, fresh fruit, poached eggs and toast, and coffee. Although I was ecstatic to see a French press come through the door, what the coffee lacked in strength, it lacked even more in flavor. There had to be something, right? Coffee longings aside, basking in our cottage's early morning light and taking in the extraordinary view, the scene was sublime. We knew we had let Nick's Cove go, but boy, was it hard.

Nick's Cove and Cottages definitely has the magic of location and atmosphere tapped. While it will cost you several pretty pennies (prices range from $225 to $695 per night), consider forking it out for a summer retreat. It's just a 2-hour drive from Sacramento and will hit the spot if you're in need of a little peace and quiet. Add in a quick trip to Point Reyes to gain a well-rounded culinary excursion. And don't delay--waterfront cottages are reportedly already booked up for summer weekends, but the Water View and Creek Side cottages, across the two-lane highway and just a stone's throw away from the water and the restaurant, offer the same luxury accommodations.

Nick's Cove

3240 Highway 1

Marshall, CA

http://nickscove.com

415.663.1033

The restaurant at Nick's Cove is open seven days a week.

Brunch: Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Lunch:  Thursday and Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Saturday and Sunday, 2 to 4:30 p.m.

Dinner:  Monday through Friday, 5 -to 9 p.m.

Saturday and Sunday, 5 to 9:30 p.m.