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By
Garrett McCord
It's
been ages since I've had an enjoyable balsamic sauce that I didn't have to make
myself http://www.ediblesacramento.com/content/index.php/blog/elf.
Last summer I purchased one at the farmers' market that touted fresh seasonal
flavors of raspberries and springtime and happiness. Dear Lord, it was like
there was a party in my mouth and everyone had died. Since then I gave up and
started whisking and reducing my own balsamic-based sauces. Thus, you can
understand my skepticism when my friend Jennifer suggested the balsamic sauces
made by Earth and Vine Provisions.
I had heard of Earth and Vine before and
seen their products on display around town. A local company dedicated to
creating fine jams, sauces, and provisions, Earth and Vine was founded in
Northern California in 1997 by Ron and Tressa Cooper. Their products are known
for being all-natural and having creative flavor concoctions such as peach
chipotle jam and apricot, Dijon, and tarragon finishing sauce.
Warily, I picked up some of their
balsamic sauces and called in the cavalry--friends whom, if I was going to be
tongue tortured, I could take down with me. So we gathered and set out our provisions:
bread, cheese, and a few small bowls. As we poured a strawberry and lemon
balsamic and a tangerine and fig balsamic, we were immediately intrigued by the
aromas of the soy-black puddles forming before us. They were sweet and
delicate, yet certainly strong enough to announce their presence. I forgot all
about my skepticism and reached for the bread.
The strawberry and lemon balsamic was
sweet, startlingly so; like strawberry jam. I was slightly put off at first; calling
the sweetness "cloying" would be an understatement. The strawberries dominated
the other flavors; the lemon and balsamic only faintly tickled the back corners
of my tongue. Still, I sensed possibility.
The trick to this sauce was to not serve
it alone. It had to be paired for its true colors to show. We broke out a small
wedge of Gorgonzola and smeared it on the bread before dipping. As I popped the
trio into my mouth, sparks began to fly. The saltiness balanced the sweet in a
perfect harmony. The fruit mingled so gingerly with the cream. The brusque
moldy veins lingered jovially with the whispers of lemon after each swallow. It's
a pairing that would work well over a spinach salad, over vanilla ice cream, or
(and I sigh longingly at this thought) swirled into or poured over a
cheesecake.
Next we tried the thick tangerine and
fig balsamic sauce. I dipped, popped, and, once again, found myself taken aback,
smiling. The tangerine, fig, and balsamic were equally balanced, each
complementing the other. All together, they formed a fourth emulsified flavor
that was new and unique.
The tangerine was bold, a perfect
stand-in now that the tangerine season had come and gone. However for me, it
was all about the fig. I was awash in memories of grade school and pulling fig
cookies out of my brown-bag lunch.
The viscous sauce was the winner of the
two in my opinion. It's heavy though, an after dinner sauce best served with
blue cheese, a nice chèvre, and maybe a charcuterie plate. Too rich to serve
before a meal, but perfect for after.
The sauces are well crafted and worth
picking up for any outdoor dinner parties you have coming up. One bottle will
go a long way and the flavors are something that will stand out at the table
with sweet smells and reminiscent tastes.
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